Against the odds, Self-Portrait graduated from being an emerging brand to an established label with commercial success in two of the world’s most competitive fashion markets. But just as it was beginning to eye global domination, the pandemic brought the entire fashion industry to a grinding halt. 

But Chong didn’t allow the disruptions to slow him down. He forged ahead in a joint venture deal with Ellassay Group. Since 2020, Self-Portrait has effectively penetrated the Asian market, cementing its presence in China by selling region-specific designs on e-commerce channels, physical stores in high-end shopping districts, such as Shanghai, Shenzhen and Guangzhou, as well as a flagship store in Beijing’s Chaoyang District.

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An indication of Self-Portrait’s growing success in Asia is the virality of its Lunar New Year campaign earlier this year, praised for its beautiful depiction of fashion, family and festive traditions. Han Chong has always leaned into his Malaysian-Chinese heritage as part of the brand’s marketing language; Malaysians were thrilled when he invited influencers Aimee Song, Tina Leung, Helena Bordon, and Eleonara Carisi to discover the island of Langkawi, as part of the launch of Self-Portrait’s swimwear line in 2019. 

“As an Asian person living in a western world, I’m always happy to be able to share my culture and what it was like for me growing up,” says Chong, referring to his childhood spent in his father’s bak kwa store in Penang and formative years studying art and design in Kuala Lumpur before moving to London to pursue womenswear design at Central Saint Martins. 

“I think it conveys a positive message to the industry. I’ve seen so much progress over the last few years; we are living in a time where people are celebrating their differences.”

The Self-Portrait network has also recruited impressive new faces, including supermodels Gigi Hadid and Kate Moss, to star in its distinctly relatable and aesthetically driven campaigns. For example, its recent ‘The Bow is Mine’ campaign for its first handbag design, the Bow Bag, featured legendary supermodel Naomi Campbell in a nostalgic and playful nod to Brandy’s ‘90s R&B hit. 

On working with these industry powerhouses, Chong shares, “People know what they stand for and look up to them. It is easy for me to translate their shared values into our campaigns, which emphasise one thing: Self-Portrait is for everyone.” 

After a decade at the helm of his brand, Chong has mastered the art of storytelling, portraying the constant evolution of the Self-Portrait woman in both his campaigns and sellable designs, including an expansion into swimwear and kidswear: “I always think of the everyday woman—what she’s feeling, what she needs or wants in her life at that very moment. I want Self-Portrait to be there for her, in every stage of life.”

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He is able to flex his creativity without cutting into the brand’s profits, a challenging achievement in an era marked by the widespread departure of creative directors in the fashion industry. “It’s important to understand how a business works,” says Chong matter-of-factly. For him, creative fulfilment and commercial viability hold equal importance. 

Also crucial to him is playing a role in ensuring people in his industry survives, and not just those with the support of international conglomerates. In 2019, he initiated a five-year scholarship programme in collaboration with his alma mater, Central Saint Martins.

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The scheme offers financial support to students pursuing their MA degree in fashion, enabling them to overcome financial barriers and complete their studies. “I was working multiple part-time jobs to afford rent—and fabric! I believe in the power of mentorship but there needs to be some financial support as well. Without it, it really takes away focus from the craft."

He adds, “I’m always open to sharing my expertise with young designers, whether it’s assisting them with pricing or developing a merchandising plan. I personally went through a lot on my own, and I don’t want that for them.”

This protective role has extended to existing brands. Known for its iconic, figure-enhancing Galaxy dress, British label Roland Mouret fell victim to the challenges posed by the pandemic and filed for administration in November 2021. The following month, Chong successfully acquired it under his holding company, SP Collection.

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“When I got the news about Roland Mouret, I knew I had to move quickly to secure this fashion house I have long respected,” says Chong. “I thought we could bring our expertise to evolve their business model, and leverage on the infrastructure and resources we already have in place, to bring Roland Mouret into a new phase, and to a broader customer base.” 

It was a welcome move by the industry, which didn’t want to see the loss of yet another independent fashion house. At the same time, Chong was redefining what a career in the industry can look like, carving out a space for himself and a new generation of designers.

“Traditionally, in the fashion industry, a ‘successful’ career path sees a creative director or CEO moving from one brand to another to keep progressing. I wanted to challenge this norm and explore avenues of personal and professional growth without having to move somewhere else,” he says. “I wanted to find something that was right for me.”

With a focus on “discovering, nurturing and developing best-in-class creativity and design”, SP Collection is certainly moving in the right direction with Roland Mouret. The joint efforts of Chong and Mouret brought the brand’s Cruise 2023 collection to life, presenting a fresh interpretation of the French designer’s classic drapes and silhouettes to a new generation.

Chong reflects on the rapid turnaround of their first project together, “We had to quickly build a new team, establish the brand’s direction and define the new language of Roland Mouret 2.0 within months of the acquisition.” 

He adds, “But it was—and continues to be—an incredible experience working with Roland. It’s inspiring to learn from him; he has more than 20 years of experience. And we both share the same goal: to make women feel good when they wear our designs.” 

When asked if he has any plans to further expand SP Collection, Chong is hard to read. “With everything that I do, I need to know that I will be able to make a real impact. That is how I operate,” he says. 

It becomes clear that while Chong moves quickly, he is never in a rush. In just a decade, Chong has emerged as one of fashion’s biggest success stories. We could spend hours analysing his business and creative strategies but the secret to his success can be summarised in three simple words: he gets it. 

And he is only just getting started. Chong tells us how excited he is to return to his offices in London after his brief tour of Asia, and keep the momentum going on projects for both Self-Portrait and Roland Mouret. In the meantime, our interview ends earlier than expected. Not one to waste time, he rushes off on a single-minded mission to squeeze in a plate of nasi kandar before heading to the airport. 

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