Last December, the Chanel Métiers d’Art collection 2023-24 was held in Manchester. Tatler delves into why the curation continues to be one of the most captivating shows on the packed global fashion show schedule
It was two weeks before Christmas, and Manchester was gearing up to host an unlikely throng of guests from around the world who had travelled to the British city at Chanel’s invitation. With its grey skies, pouring rain and heavy traffic, Manchester is not a city that easily wins you over. And yet there is something captivating about its atmosphere.
The city holds a significant place in history as one of the birthplaces of the industrial revolution. It is also the origin of some of the most influential post-punk bands, including The Smiths, New Order and Joy Division, whose music defined much of the British music scene in the Seventies and Eighties. The city housed one of the most influential record companies, Factory Records, where design legend Peter Saville produced numerous enduring record cover designs that continue to inspire many to this day; Chanel invited him to create a special logo for the December show.
This innovative air is precisely why Virginie Viard, creative director of Chanel, was drawn to Manchester, despite its seemingly tenuous connection to high fashion. “For me, Manchester is the city of music,” says Viard. “It incites creation.”
Métiers d’Art, an annual collection initiated in 2001 by the late fashion legend and Chanel creative director Karl Lagerfeld, honours the artisans that contribute their craftsmanship to the maison’s creations. Chanel started acquiring small ateliers in the 1980s—some of which have existed for more than a century—and in 1997 established Paraffection, a subsidiary that serves as an umbrella organisation for these smaller brands. Over the years, the fleet of artisan workshops expanded, culminating in the establishment of Le19M in 2022—an ambitious undertaking that brought together 11 maisons d’art under one roof.
Read more: Weaving history and design in the Tweed de Chanel high jewellery collection
The mission of this ambitious venture is simple: to preserve the heritage of craftsmanship, revitalise tradition, and push the boundaries and limits of creativity. This is made possible through the high level of independence with which Le19M operates: these master craft houses not only contribute their meticulous skills to Chanel but are also free to extend their expertise to other fashion houses.
The Métiers d’Art collection was born out of a celebration of the artisanal knowledge and innovation embodied by these ateliers. While ready-to-wear offers a versatile selection of day-to-day styles and haute couture focuses on opulent craftsmanship and tailor-made designs to meet clients’ unique requests, the Métiers d’Art collection falls somewhere in between, blending artistry and accessibility, while at the same time letting imaginations run wild.
At the Dallas Métiers d’Art show in 2013, French elegance was infused with Wild West cowboy style; the Edinburgh show the previous year transported the French maison into the realm of goth and majestic aesthetics; and the 2017 iteration took Chanel back to the swinging Sixties in Lagerfeld’s hometown of Hamburg, also paying homage to the city’s maritime traditions.
As a concept, the Métiers d’art shows embody some of Gabrielle Chanel’s most essential characteristics. Her designs were greatly inspired by her travels—many of her creations were born from influences of other cultures. Her visits to Venice in the 1920s, for example, inspired her to incorporate lions, a symbol prevalent throughout the city, into her work; they have since become an enduring symbol of the house. Her acquaintance with Russian aristocrats brought intricate Slavic embroidery into her designs.
